For years, long, flowing wigs and hair extensions have dominated the catwalks of Ivory Coast’s renowned beauty pageants. Contestants have routinely spent large sums on their appearance—from designer outfits to elaborate hairstyles—with very few opting to showcase their natural look.
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In more than six decades, only two winners have stood out by embracing their natural hair. The most recent, Marlène-Kany Kouassi, was crowned Miss Ivory Coast in 2022. She appeared radiant with short, unaltered hair, her only adornment being the crown she wore. Her victory was not only rare in Ivory Coast but also globally significant, where Western beauty standards tend to set the benchmark for pageant aesthetics.
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Change, however, appears to be on the horizon. In December 2023, Angélique Angarni-Filopon from Martinique made international headlines when she was crowned Miss France at the age of 34, proudly wearing her short Afro-textured hair.
This year, the Miss Ivory Coast organisers are initiating a notable shift. For the first time, wigs, weaves, and hair extensions have been banned during the preliminary rounds of the competition, which take place in 13 cities across the country, as well as in two international locations for the diaspora.
“We want the candidates to be natural—whether with braids or straightened hair, it should be their own. Beauty must be raw,” said Victor Yapobi, President of the Miss Ivory Coast organising committee, in an interview with the BBC.
Ivory Coast remains the only African nation to enforce such a regulation at the national level. According to Mr Yapobi, the committee has long advocated for a more authentic portrayal of beauty—discouraging cosmetic surgery and frowning upon skin lightening.
“We decided this year to truly showcase the natural beauty of these young women,” he added.
In addition to the hair policy, organisers have introduced several reforms: the minimum height requirement has been reduced to 1.67m (5ft 4in), the age limit raised to 28, and the entrance fee lowered by over $30 (£25), now set at $50.
“This change in criteria is because we observed these young women were putting up a lot of money to participate, and it was becoming a bit of a budget drain,” Yapobi explained.
At the preliminary contest in Daloa, the principal city in the Haut-Sassandra region, the new rules were met with enthusiasm by some. One contestant, 21-year-old real estate agent Emmanuella Dali, expressed her relief:
“I would see other girls with long, artificial hair, and they looked so beautiful. This rule gives me more pride as a woman—as an African woman.”
However, the policy has sparked debate. Wigs and extensions are not merely fashion items—they also serve as protective styles, helping to reduce daily manipulation and prevent hair breakage. Some contestants felt that the rule limited their freedom of expression.
“I’m a wigs fan. I love wigs,” admitted 24-year-old contestant and make-up artist Astrid Menekou. “I didn’t expect this rule! But now? I like my hair, and that’s OK.”
The shift has encouraged a broader reflection on what defines beauty. Student Laetitia Mouroufie, 25, shared: “Last year, I had extensions because I thought that’s what beauty meant. This year, I feel more confident being myself.”
Should this movement extend beyond pageantry, it could significantly impact Ivory Coast’s economy. Human hair wigs, which can last for years, can cost anywhere between $200 and $4,000. Synthetic versions range from $10 to $300. The country’s hair industry is estimated to be worth over $300 million annually, with wigs and weaves comprising a large portion of that market.
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Local hairstylists have voiced concerns. “This rule is not good for us,” said 30-year-old hairdresser Ange Sea in Daloa. “Many women love wigs. This will hurt our business and we make more money when working with wigs and weaves.”
Her salon, like many others, specialises in applying wigs with adhesive for a natural look, with clients spending hours to achieve their desired style. The widespread appeal of wigs in West Africa contrasts with the rising global natural hair movement, which encourages Black women to embrace their hair texture.
Natural hair influencers are growing in prominence, sharing techniques and products that make natural hair maintenance more manageable. Yet, according to Florence Edwige Nanga, a trichologist based in Abidjan, perceptions remain slow to change.
“Turn on the TV , and you’ll see almost every journalist wearing a wig,” she observed. “These beauty enhancements are fashionable, but they can also cause problems—like alopecia or scalp infections.”
As the pageant continues its preliminary rounds, a national conversation is unfolding over whether beauty contests should dictate standards or if women should be free to choose their preferred appearance.
Still, the organisers report overwhelming support. “Everyone congratulates us. Everyone, even from abroad. I receive emails and WhatsApp messages from everywhere congratulating us for wanting to return to our roots,” said Mr Yapobi.
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No decision has yet been made about whether the final 15 contestants for Miss Ivory Coast 2025 will also be subject to the wig ban. The grand finale is scheduled for late June at a hotel in Abidjan and will be televised nationally.
“If it works, we’ll continue and carry on this initiative in the years to come,” Yapobi affirmed.
For newly crowned Miss Haut-Sassandra, Doria Koré, the moment carried symbolic weight: “Winning with natural hair shows the true beauty of African women.”
